Top 4 Best Electric Motor for Electric Bike You Should Know

“I used this kit to convert my old mountain bike into an e-bike. Installation took about two hours, and I was riding within the day. It’s quiet, powerful enough for daily errands, and the controller feels solid.”

“Great starter kit! The instructions could be clearer, but once I figured out the wiring, everything worked perfectly. My 12-year-old son loves riding his converted bike now.”

Customer Review: “The product is completely fine. I got it to convert my bike into an electric bike. I literally just got the mechanics and electronics all to work. I have no idea what the hard boot wires are for because I tried to start it with that in and nothing happened so I just leave it disconnected. For me I needed to mount the motor so the sprocket was on the left side of the bike to take advantage of electronic breaking which the motor controller does not do. I’m taking a three phase rectifier and am going to have some relays in series to connect it back to the battery only when the motor controller is first disconnected but I have yet to test it). However the motor is hardwired to spin forward in the opposite direction for that side.(motor spin direction is important because the motor controller does not allow full speed in the reverse mode)TO CHANGE THE DIRECTION OF SPIN: simply switch any and only two main motor wires with each other but because of the holifex sensor it won’t work at all then. Next you need to do the same thing to the leads of the holifex. The holifex has 5 cords. 2 (red and black) are only for power and the other three correspond with the main motor inputs. I switched blue and yellow on the motor but when I did the same on the holifex it still didn’t work because they didn’t correlate the color of the wire in the holifex with the color wire of the motor it actually sensed so you might have to cut strip and try all combinations till it works. But that’s how you hard wire it to go in the other direction. I suggest cutting the wires from the controller and not the motor.Also to people who complained about the Chinese on the handle… Figure it out. It’s easy to remember once you try them all and see what they do but if you want others to know too then just take a Sharpe marker and Mark 123 and FR on the switches. Litteraly 1min to do all of that! I’ll add some stats when I get a battery with enough power but a 5p 12s battery got me to 15mph+ on flatish road on low setting. Med and high seem to try then stop 1sec later but I think its my bms throttling the controller. Someone said it could get you up to 60mph but let me test it.Wires coming out of the motor controller can be difficult to figure out but remember blue to blue for throttle.Update: I decided I’m going to make a completely new battery entirely so the new battery will be 20p by 20s I’m going to make it in four separate packs each pack will have 20 parallel and five rows in series to give me the maximum amount of nickel to spread out the current. I’m going to use a 50 amp output 20s bms. If you want to make your own regenerative braking on top of the rectifier you’ll also need 1500w boost converter with constant voltage control to boost the voltage up to YOUR batteries charging voltage. You can also plug a solar panel into the same boost converter to charge the battery. If you want to charge the battery with a wall outlet I’d suggest looking into server power supplies you can get 1100w for 30 bucks-ish you just need to research ahead of time how to wire the leads to turn it on. To power any low voltage equipment you might want to look into a voltage step down from 72v to 12v. If you need a lower voltage I would suggest getting the step down to 12v and then a 12v to whatever you need (probs 5v) because a lot of DC stuff uses 12v cuz cars.It would also be a good idea to get a battery power output monitor just keep track of the Watts going in and out and battery voltage.If you’re going to use this motor it’s probably the cheapest one for the wattage but the in wheel Motors are a lot more Compact and take up a lot less space in the frame of the bike that could be used for battery. I just recently learned how to make an in wheel motor and besides not knowing a good source of cheap coated copper wire I think I would probably make my own motor and motor controller. For the average Joe though this is probably your best budget option just don’t forget to buy a chain tensioner! Just do it (12 bucks will save a lot of trouble).”

Customer Review: “Fits razor mx650 and pairs well with my 72v 20mah wroyeti battery.. I can travel at least 25miles and the motor and controller are powerful and good quality..hard boot switch plugged and it takes off with nod delay or lag..I’m also able to get up to 45.. I haven’t had an issue yet.. but if I do I will update”

Customer Review: “Had a couple minor issues , mostly not knowing about ebikes, seller talked me through issues, everything is good now, sister is happy with her bike. Thank you.”

Customer Review: “Very happy with this bike so far, Customer service was very good.”

Customer Review: “The media could not be loaded. I have only received the motor/controller and am in the process of installing this system but it is being put in my own design so it will take a while for a comprehensive review. for now, I thought I would do the review on what I know.The motor and controller came in protective foam wrapping and box adequate for shipping. While there are nicks/scratches on the motor just like the product description states. these are cosmetic and are not going to affect the performance. If it bothers you the motor is nicely polished and a simple buffing can resolve it.I wish they had included mating connectors for everything. These are not STD that I can tell so for my project I will have to cut the ends and remark the cables and would surely void any warranty on the controller. Having mating connectors can prevent that.Once I have my project completed I an probably help supply a schematic that most people may be interested in using. What is odd the brake light and indicator light both show 48V output. That is a high voltage for lights, normal LED/lights for vehicles are 12V so will interesting to see if I can find lights or a way to step that down. Also, it is not clear if that changes to 60V if the SM 48V/60V wire is connected.Also, there is a reversing signal pigtail. Not clear how that is setup, but I assume a simple NO connection will do.I will edit this post as I find out more things, but for now the motor/controller was as expected.EDIT 3/6/2019Added 2 photos and a video. I am building an Electric mower and using this motor to power. While some will say it is under powered for the job. I intend to show that most electric conversions have been grossly over powering the electric motor. You really do not need that much.First a image of the original mower, had a 18-20hp Twin Cylinder engine that I got after a son drained the oil but had no replacement oil and left with friends. Dad came home and mower yard and burnt engine up. Chassis is in perfect shape.The video shows a test spin, with no load. It was running about 1/4 throttle. As you can see the chain was loose so I did not run it fast. I am working on a chain tension system and better motor mounting. Again, this was only a test.The third picture shows where I made my mistake of only using the bottom mounts, When I put the wheels on the ground the motor and torque literally bent the motor mount. Fixable though.Some points on my setup:1. I am currently running my mower on (2) 24V – 2ah electric drill batteries connected in series. Once I get the motor mounted and wired I will build a more appropriate battery stack.2. REVERSE: For reverse all that is needed is to wire a flip switch into the connector. When flipped turning the throttle gives you reverse. It is that simple.That is it for now. Next steps are to look into the braking system and brake lights, ect. Since there are no opposing connectors, I have to replace and rewire all of the connections.Someone asked a question about the throttle graph not working. It DOES. But you have to provide over 42V. If not, it will only display the battery symbol and bottom bar of power. That is the indication that the battery is dead.I am also planning to provide a complete set of plans on using this motor for a conversion if anyone is interested.”

Customer Review: “The media could not be loaded. Bought a E dirtbike off of Amazon was advertised as a 500 W dirtbike top speed of 15 mph. The bike was slower than a razor MX 350 but appeared much larger so did some research. Bought this kit along with a lithium ion battery and the difference is amazing. I will try to upload a video for a comparison just to what the bike does now compared to a stock MX 350 razor this is not about insulting razor what so ever. The MX 350 is a excellent choice of bike for the money.It’s just a general comparison so you can see what the upgraded motor and lithium battery does to a E dirt bike”